Reflections From a Dutch National Reckoning
After a trip to Amsterdam and discussions on a forthcoming National Slavery Museum in the Netherlands, I was struck by our universal and perpetually incomplete project of memorializing the past.
In the heart of Amsterdam’s historic Jewish Quarter sits the National Holocaust Memorial of Names: a labyrinth of passages for visitors to walk through that, from above, form four Hebrew letters that spell out what translates to “in memory of.” The steel letters float atop walls that are built, brick by brick, with the names of 102,000 known Dutch Holocaust victims.
This October, I stood in front of the brick for Anne Frank—one brick, one life—stacked among thousands of others. It was a moment I won’t soon forget, to reach out and touch her name.
It came on the heels of a visit to the Anne Frank House: a museum in the home that once hid Anne and her family from the Nazis. It was my second time visiting the museum but my first in the company of its director, Ronald Leopold. I learned the depth of Dutch loss: the Netherlands was home to the largest number of Jews exterminated in the Holocaust in Western Europe (Poland was home to the largest exterminated Jewish population in the world). And I learned again about the illumination of tragedy that occurs when we zoom in on a single story amongst the millions, as the Anne Frank House does.
Not every history has been illuminated the same way.
To see the legacy of slavery in the Netherlands, I stepped not into a museum but onto a boat. Jennifer Tosch, the founder of Black Heritage Tours, escorted us through Amsterdam’s network of canals, stopping at often-unmarked sites of Black history. We paused at some of the most elite homes of those monied by the profits of plantations in Dutch colonies; at the West India House, the headquarters of the West India Company known for monopolizing Dutch participation in the transatlantic slave trade; and outside the Maritime Museum, where a replica of an 18th century cargo ship is docked, reminiscent of those used to transport enslaved Africans.
My visit to the Netherlands was a three-day whirlwind during which I spoke to some 800 people about their existing and forthcoming efforts to memorialize Dutch history in the slave trade. It was an opportunity to tour the city, to marvel at rich histories both prominently commemorated and hidden away, and to share some of the lessons from the National Museum of African American History and Culture (NMAAHC).
Halfway across the world, I was struck by the universal project of memory: across cultural contexts, we are reckoning with the painful and poignant process of bringing history into the contemporary landscape. It is a difficult thing, to hold the weight of our past and lay it down before us, to balance grief and culpability, to share an unvarnished history and chart a new path forward. It is also the most important thing we can do to avoid repeating the tragedies of our past.
Posted: 20 November 2023
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